From Royal Courts to Mughal Closets: The Mughal Romance with Chanderi Weaves

Origin and Historical Touchpoints —
The traditional Chanderi weave, as the name suggests, originates from the small town of
Chanderi in Ashok Nagar district, Madhya Pradesh. This tranquil town holds immense
historical significance, with its weaving traditions believed to have originated between the
2nd and 7th centuries BC. However, it truly gained prominence around the 11th century,
emerging as a significant trade hub for merchants from Gujarat, Mewar, the Deccan, and
other regions. The craft may have re-established itself in today’s trend-bent and fashion-
forward world, but its origin dates back to the 13th Century AD when it was just a
traditional saree of the Koli Samaj of Madhya Pradesh crafted by the Koli weavers. Later,
with the luxurious look, and lightweight & opulent textures of the fabric, Chanderi textiles
became a hit in the royal households and the Mughals. Mughal emperors, especially Akbar,
recognised the beauty and craftsmanship of traditional Chanderi weave, resulting in the
popularity of the craft in the royal courts and for gifting purposes. Later on, during the 17th
century, one can find mentions of woven Chanderi fabric in Maasir-i-Alamgiri, wherein it
is stated that Aurangzeb ordered the use of a cloth embroidered with gold and silver for
making khilat (a ceremonial robe or other gift given to someone by a superior as a mark of
honour). The significance of Chanderi rose to fame in the Mughal art and fashion realm due
to its sheer beauty, softness, and transparency. The Mughal influence on Indian textiles such
as Chanderi silk sarees is widely evident by the incorporation of Persian and Indian design
elements such as floral motifs, butis, and borders.
Originally, Chanderi silk sarees were skillfully woven using handspun cotton yarn with an
exceptionally high thread count of 300, making them as delicate and fine as the famous
muslin cloth of Dhaka. This superior cotton yarn derived its fineness from a special root
known as Kolikanda. For centuries, Chanderi silk sarees thrived under the patronage of the
Mughal emperors and Rajput royalty, where the art of weaving this exquisite fabric was
carefully preserved and celebrated.
Moreover, as per the accounts of a Jesuit priest who travelled through Marwar between
1740 and 1761, Chanderi fabric not only enjoyed royal patronage but was also traded beyond
Indian shores. Later, British visitor RC Sterndal observed that Chanderi silk sarees

remained a favourite among Indian royal women, admired for their soft, lightweight
texture and sheer elegance.
Although these historical records make it challenging to pinpoint the exact origins of the
traditional Chanderi weaves, it’s evident that the textile was highly cherished by the ruling
class of Bundelkhand and the surrounding regions, and became a prominent part of the
Mughal fashion heritage.

Chanderi Saree Styling by the Mughals & Royals —
The Royal and Mughal women, especially queens and princesses, often adorned themselves
in traditional Chanderi weaves such as Chanderi silk sarees and veils for special occasions
like religious ceremonies, court assemblies, and festive celebrations. They admired
Chanderi for its feather-light feel, subtle sheen, and intricate craftsmanship. Over time,
these sarees came to represent luxury, grace, and refined taste among the elites. They
draped the Chanderi sarees in a way that highlighted their status along with the fabric’s
charm and elegance.
Let’s dive into each element of Chanderi saree styling by the royals and understand the
Mughal art and fashion more deeply.

❖ The Drape Dynamics
Chanderi sarees were traditionally draped in a style where the pallav (the loose end of the
saree) gracefully trailed along the ground, especially in bridal attire. The Royal saree styles
and draping methods added a sense of fluidity and elegance to the ensemble, beautifully
elevating its overall appearance. Moreover, it also symbolized their grace, modesty, and
elegance. It’s safe to say that Mughal queens and princesses have been the elegant fashion
icons and idols for the evolution of saree draping with long pallav.

❖ Mystery of the Ghunghat
During the Mughal era, it was customary for noblewomen to wear a 'ghunghat' or veil over
their faces. When paired with a Chanderi saree, the delicate veil beautifully complemented
the saree’s intricate patterns and gold embellishments, lending an air of mystery and
elegance to the wearer. The sheer veil or odhani is made of Chanderi studded with gold

motifs and draped over the head or shoulders, adding a regal, layered effect to the
ensemble.

❖ Chemistry of Colours & Patterns
Mughal royalty preferred pastel shades, such as ivory, rose gold, rose pink, soft gold tones,
jade green, turquoise, and other lighter hues in detailed handwoven designs and patterns.
The patterns on their garments were an amalgamation of Persian and Indian art, nature,
and Mughal architecture.

❖ Styling for the Status
The grandeur and charm of Chanderi sarees made them an important part of the status
symbol of the Royals and Mughals. Queens and empresses often chose to wear them as a
symbol of Mughal art and fashion, to exhibit their regal stature and refined elegance during
grand occasions and ceremonial events. The luxe sheen of silk, intricate designs, floral
motifs embroidered with real silver and golden threads, and delicate embellishments on
the saree contributed to their appeal and favouritism among the elite class.

❖ The Jewellery Juggle
Mughal queens styled their Chanderi sarees with elaborate kundan, polki, and meenakari
jewellery — heavy necklaces, chandelier earrings, maang-tikkas, armlets (bajuband), and
anklets, often encrusted with precious stones like rubies, emeralds, and pearls.

❖ Hair & Makeup Magic
The royal women styled their hair in elegant buns, decorated with fresh flowers, and
ornaments such as intricately designed hairpins. Their eyes were lined with kohl and a hint
of sandalwood and rose scents spread through their aura speaking of timeless elegance and
grace.

In conclusion, we can humbly say that what started as a caste-specific craft among the Koli
Samaaj of Chanderi, gradually rose to fame and became a key component of Mughal fashion
heritage. The Mughal queens and royal empresses loved Chanderi saree styling for cultural
functions, wedding ceremonies, childbirth ceremonies, and/or royal soirees. They adorned

sarees of light pastel shades, wore them in a traditional manner with 'ghunghat' and long
pallus, and glammed up with precious jewels like meenakari jewellery, armlets, chandelier
earrings, etc. Chanderi became a symbol of wealth and status for the royalty and they wore
it to exhibit their sophisticated and luxurious lifestyle.
Therefore, Chanderi is not just a historic Indian textile legacy, but the chosen craft that
effortlessly romanced the Mughals and successfully reached their majestic Mahals and luxe
closets!